When it comes to choosing a mens suit, the most important factor to consider is the fit. However, simply choosing the "right size" doesn’t guarantee a perfect fit. What you need to do is explore the various components that make up a suit, and then discover how each component is supposed to fit to your body. The three main components are the shoulders, chest, and length.
The right shoulder size is crucial to a stylish dress suit. If the shoulders are too big, then the suit can look inappropriate and sloppy. According to GQ’s How to Buy a Suit guide, the suit’s shoulders should hug yours. This means, the shoulder pads shouldn’t stick out past your own shoulders. GQ recommends an easy test: Stand sideways against a wall, and if the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, then the sport coat is too big for you.
If the shoulder pads are too big, move on to the next suit. No matter how much you like a particular suit, don’t expect your tailor to help you with the shoulder pads. Removing or reducing the shoulder pads to a smaller size can greatly damage the fit. This is because mens suits and sports coats are designed around the shoulders. Alterations can directly affect the overhang of the shoulders and how the sleeves are set in.
Clothing designer and film director Tom Ford recently offered his ten rules of style to Details magazine. While he doesn’t seem to fret much about suit cuts, he does go for a, "fairly classic shape that gives a man strong shoulders, a fitted waist, and long legs." Make sure you also check the sizing chart at the online suit store, Menswearecollection.com.
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